The Bale Mountains, with their vast moorlands - the lower reaches covered with St. John's worth- and their extensive hearth land, virgin woodlands, pristine mountain streams and alpine climate remain an untouched and beautiful world. Rising to a height of more than 4,000 meters, the range borders Ethiopia's southern highlands, whose highest peak, Mount Tullu Deemtu, stands at 4,377 meters.
The establishment of the 2,400-square-kilometer Bale Mountains National Park was crucial to the survival of the mountain Nyala, Menelik's bushbuck and the Simien red fox. This fox is one of the most colorful members of the dog family and more abundant here than anywhere else in Ethiopia. All three endemic animals thrive in this environment, the Nyala in particular often being seen in large numbers. The Bale Mountains offer some fine high-altitude horse and foot trekking, and the streams of the park - which become important rivers further downstream - are well-stocked with rainbow and brown trout
TOPOGRAPHY
The Bale Mountains rise from the extensive surrounding farmlands at 2,500 m above sea level to the west, north and east. The National Park area is divided into two major parts by the spectacular Harenna escarpment that runs from east to west.
North of this escarpment is a high altitude plateau area at 4,000 m altitude. The plateau is formed of ancient volcanic rocks (trachytes, basalts, agglomerates and tuffs) dissected by many Rivers and streams that have cut deep gorges into the edges over the centuries. In some places this has resulted in scenic waterfalls. From the plateau rise several mountain massifs of rounded and craggy peaks, including Tullu Deemtu the second-highest mountain in Ethiopia at 4,377 m above sea level. (Ras Dashen, near the Simien Mountains National Park in the north is the highest - 4,543 m). A major part of the central peaks area is covered by a capping of more recent lava flows, still mainly unvegetated, and forming spectacular rock ripples and pillars. Many shallow depressions on the plateau are filled with water in the wet season, forming small lakes that mirror the surrounding scenery. Larger lakes such as Garba Guracha ("black water"), Hora Bachay and Hala Weoz, contain water all year round. These many lakes provide habitat for water birds, especially migrating ducks from Europe during the northern winter.
Best time to visit
The climate of the Bale Mountains, as is to be expected in a high altitude mountainous region, is characterized by a high rainfall and periods of damp cloudy weather, interspersed with periods of sparkling sunny weather with brilliant blue skies.
The climatic year can be roughly divided into three seasons -the dry, early wet and wet seasons. The dry season is usually from November to February. Very little rain is experienced and temperatures on the clear sunny days may rise to as high as nearly 30° centigrade. Nights are star-filled, clear and cold, usually with heavy ground frosts. Temperatures may fall between minus 6° and minus 15° centigrade in the main peak area of the Park. This is the best period to visit the National Park, especially for walking and horse trekking in the high mountain area. The vegetation can get very dry in the dry season, and fires must then be very carefully tended.
The early wet season lasts from March to June, and about two-thirds as much rain falls in this period, as in the wet season from July to October. Throughout these eight months, days are generally cooler and nights warmer than in the dry season. Despite the wetter weather, the area can still be enjoyed with adequate warm and weatherproof clothing. Bright sunny periods may be experienced at any time. Snow has been recorded, but does not lie around for very long.
South of the Harenna escarpment, the land falls precipitously to a large area of dense Podo carpus forest, that slopes gradually down to an altitude of 1 500 m at the southern Park boundary. A few kilometres further on the land changes. Abruptly to open wooded grasslands, with higher temperatures and the surprising sight of camels in the area of Dolo-Mena.
Vegetation
Grassland has formed at the forest altitude near Dinsho and at Gaysay. This is partly due to the action of man, but mainly at Gay say through impeded drainage and marshy conditions. These grasslands include large areas of the scrubby aromatic "Sagebrush” plant (Artemisia afra) -a staple food plant of the Mountain Nyala, and the grey-green leaved "everlasting" flower (Helichrysum splendidum), which produces papery bright yellow flowers early in the wet season at this altitude. The heather zone is often burnt in an attempt by pastoralists to obtain more grassland. As a result the size of the heather (mainly Erica arboreica) varies greatly -from thirty centimeter recent recovering to five meters tall mature trees. Mature heather trunks and stems are usually lichen and moss covered and the frequent mists also support a lush dense growth beneath them of wildflowers and grasses.
Wildlife-
The Mountains are most famous as home and refuge of the endemic Mountain Nyala and Semien Fox. Both these mammals occur in reasonable numbers, and visits to the Gaysay area, and the Sanetti plateau will ensure you see both. The Mountain Nyala is a large antelope in the spiral-horned antelope family. Males are a dark brown colure with a pair of gently spiraled horns with white tips. They bear handsome white markings on the face, neck and legs, together with usually at least one stripe and some white spots on each side. The hornless females are a lighter brown colure, and typically have the same white markings as the males, though less often have stripes, but normally have spots on the sides. Males can weigh as much as 280 kilos, stand one and a half meters at the shoulder, and have a mane of long erectile hairs along the spine. Females weigh less and have no mane.
The Semien Fox -despite its name is more common here in Bale than it is in Semyen. It is found nowhere in between these two isolated mountain areas, and nowhere else in the world. The animal is the size and colour of a European Red Fox, but with long legs, longer muzzle, and a striking black and white tail. The male and female are similar in appearance. Semien Fox feed on rodents, and as a result is mainly found at the higher altitudes where rodents abound. The Sanetti Plateau is an especially good area to see them, but they do occur in higher parts of the mountains, as well as down at Gaysay on rare occasions. They are usually seen hunting alone, but can be seen in pairs, and after the breeding season as many as eight adults and cubs have been seen together. The Semien Fox hunts their prey by standing still over the rodent holes, patiently listening, turning their head and ears from side to side, and suddenly pouncing when a rat emerges.
Rodents
Rats, mice, etc, are not usually considered "wildlife" by most visitors! However, in the Bale Mountains they are an extremely important part of the ecosystem.
Monkeys-Only three primate species have been found in the Bale Mountains National Park so far. The Guereza, or black and white Columbus Monkey, is common wherever there is suitable forest habitat. Several troops are on the flanks of Gaysay Mountain and the Adelay ridge, and they are very common in the Harenna forest area.
The Bale Mountains possess many habitats rich in birds, particularly the Harenna Forest which has been little studied. More than one hundred and sixty species of birds are known from the Park area.
Amongst the endemics, the more commonly seen only are mentioned here. The Blue-winged Goose and Rouget's Rail are found near any water be it stream or high mountain lake, at all altitudes. The noisy Wattled Ibis occurs in most muddy places busily probing for food with its long curved bill. Large numbers roost on high, cliffs in the mountains every night. The beautiful Spot-breasted Plover is found in large numbers in the wet season on the Sanetti Plateau, and large flocks of the White-collared Pigeon feed on the ground here at the same period. The weird-Looking Thick-billed Raven is a denizen of most villages, and usually finds your camp at any altitude. The colorful little green and red Black-winged Love-birds are seen in large numbers in the forest areas, while the larger Yellow-fronted Parrot is less often seen in the same habitat. The strident ringing calls of the shy Abyssinian Catbird betray its presence in forest. Close observation in the Gaysay grasslands and beside the main road will reveal the Abyssinian Long claw -a drab little bird, but with a smart yellow bib. The high plateau is characterized by large flocks of the little black and yellow Black-headed Siskin.
The Bale Mountains, rich in streams and little Alpine lakes, provide food and security for unusual water birds such as the Ruddy Shelduck and the tall elegant Wattle Crane. Many European ducks and waders pass the dry season in the mountains, before returning to Europe, as do several birds of prey such as the Steppe Eagle and Kestrel. Probably the most common and friendly bird at all altitudes is the little drab but cheery Mountain Chat - puffed up like a round feathered ball in the icy dawn, hopping from tussock to tussock as he investigates you. One of the largest and most spectacular birds is the Lammergeyer also called the Bearded Vulture or Bone-breaker. This enormous bird with its over-two-meter wingspan is often seen soaring alone over suitably high cliffs and rock outcrops, while splintered bone fragments, even on the top of Tullu Deemtu and Mt. Batu tell of its presence. Wherever you go in Bale there are birds to watch, and generally unusual ones to add considerably to your experience of this wonderful area.
Walking
Bale Mountains National Park is essentially a walking area. Horse treks of several days duration into the main peak area with pack and riding horses and accompanied by a guide, can be arranged through the Park authorities in Dinsho. In addition, shorter walks can be accomplished in the Dinsho area, or from anywhere along the roads and tracks mentioned above.
Horse trekking
Short riding trips can be arranged in the Dinsho area, but it is far more worthwhile to set aside at least four full days to enjoy a horse trip to the full. Arrangements are best made beforehand by letter or phone, but horses can be organized for a morning departure if requested the afternoon before. Various routes can be followed, and it is best to take the advice of your local guide from Dinsho.
Other Attractions,
Sof Omar Caves
The fantastic limestone caves of Sof Omar make a day's outing from Dinsho, Robe or Goba. The road leaves Robe town, crossing the farming areas to the east, before descending into the lowlands. Here the vegetation is very different being dry lowland with wooded grasslands. The caves lie at 1,300 m above sea level. This is in marked contrast to what you will experience in the Bale Mountains at up to 4,000 m. Very different animals occur along the way as well, most noticeably the Greater and Lesser Kudu - both relatives of the Mountain Nyala, and the tiny dik dik antelope. The caves themselves carry the whole flow of the Web River that rises in the Bale Mountains, underground through wonderfully carved caverns for a distance of one and a half kilometers. There are over fifteen kilometers of associated passages, which require skill, time and special equipment for a full exploration. However, a friendly local guide will show you enough to take your breath away and make the trip worthwhile, for an hour or for as long as you care to spend. A cool dip in the clear River afterwards refreshes you for the return drive. Full details of the caves are provided in the booklet, "The Caves of Sof Omar" obtainable from the Ethiopian Tourism Commission.
Access
Dinsho -the Park Headquarters, Robe and Goba can all be reached in a long day's drive from Addis Ababa. There are two routes -either along the Rift Valley south to “Shashamenne” or through Asella. The route via Shashamenne has more tarmac, and provides the added attractions of the Rift Valley Lakes National Park - Abiatta and Shala lakes, and the Senkelle Swayne's Hartebeest Sanctuary, as well as the opportunity for an overnight stop at Lake Langano Resort.
From Shashamenne you take the road east onto the wheat-growing plateau, before climbing up into the mountains from Adaba through the beautiful Zuten Melka Gorge.
The Asella route takes you south from Nazaret across the Awash River and along the eastern wall of the Rift Valley, below the Arsi Mountains, which are to the east. Once over the pass between Mts. Kakka and Nkolo, you descend to cross the Wabe Shebele River, before reaching Dodola and joining the route into the mountains from Shashamenne.
Equipments
Warm clothing is a must at any time of the year, and waterproof clothing essential between March and November, and advisable at all times. Visitors who are intending to do some walking will need sturdy shoes or boots. It must be remembered that the sun at high altitudes burns the skin easily. Hats, dark glasses and sunscreen lotions are therefore strongly recommended. Those visitors spending nights on the trail need warm sleeping bags and light tents and camping equipment. These can be provided by NTO for those trips arranged through them. Useful companions on a trip to the Bale Mountains National Park are "Endemic Mammals of Ethiopia", "Ethiopia's Endemic Birds" and the "Caves of Sof Omar" which are all published by ETC and available from NTO and bookshops in Addis. Also very useful is "Some Wild Flowering Plants of Ethiopia" by Sue Edwards.
Accommodation
Accommodation is not yet available in the Park area. The new Ras Hotel at Goba provides good accommodation fifty kilometers from Park Headquarters at Dinsho, and is at the base of the road leading to the Sanetti plateau and the east and Southern parts of the Park. The Bekelle Mola Hotel at Robe, (15 km north of Goba) provides motel type accommodation, forty kilometers from Dinsho on the way to Goba. Under certain circumstances camping may be allowed at the Park Headquarters. Obviously camping is allowed in the main part of the Park when visitors are horse trekking.